…and ceiling,, too….
The (never-ending) project of getting the guest quarters up to snuff saw the “bulk, underlying” mud go on this week:
Some discussion of old construction sheetrock repairs is warranted by this (ugly, but only for now) view.
- When “dealing with ceiling” and a repair of this type, I like to put a batch of “filling mud” into large cracks and such before taping. The reason (*at least seems logical to me) is that unsupported tape over a void will crack (move) easier than tape which is semi-supported and very small – if any – voids.
- This kind of repair is problematic in another way, since the new sheetrock does not have any (time and humidity-driven) sag between supports. A non-issue on vertical walls, but a grand problem on a saggy 16-inch centers ceiling.
- Next point is the tape to be used. I really like the new fiberglass tapes – and I’m using it on this job. One reason is the fire tape – which gives a 1 or 2-hour fire rating when properly applied, has a bunch of fine-print about having to be oil-base primed first before paint. Paint brushes and I don’t get along as well as, um, wine bottles and me for example…
- Finally, the fiberglass tape – get the finest weave you can. Some tape has really big fiberglass strands and damn near a quarter inch apart. May be strong as hell, but it leaves you with a ripply surface if you don’t mud on the 45/bias to float things smoothly. Finer weave of the glass tape, the better, I reckon.
Like Remo Williams, the “adventure continues” when I get up the gumption to face it. Thus goes the mud discourse.
Taping Before Cutting
I wasn’t particularly happy with the rou7gh edge left by the circ saw when I was tearing down the sheet of 3/4 inch plywood that’s being lammed up for the Radial Saw Restoration. Reason is the edges even with a good carbide blade were really ragged.
The way you get around this is to pull out the woodworking tape, although over the years, I’ve used green, blue, and Manila colored masking tapes and they work just fine.
Here’s the tape going on before a “truing cut” to clean up the edge on the table saw:
Cut down the middle of the tape and you get a vastly cleaner cut. I suppose if I wasn’t lazy, I would have taken off the all-purpose carbide blade and put on a plywood blade. But I like to save that for honest-to-God cabinet work. Which this isn’t.
Next step in the process, once trued-up, was laminating the matching pieces together:
As you can see, the 3-inch and the 7-inch have the glue and screws in here. The 17-1/2-inch was next in line.
No to Glue Brushes
Of all the K-6 classes I remember from 65+ years ago, I think finger-painting was my favorite. Great fun. Seriously – think back on fingerpainting and remember the smell, the colors? Wayback Machine stuff, Sherman.
Point is, there is this fad in “fine woodworking” where everyone goes to Rockler (or the Zon) and pisses endless money into glue spreading devices.
Around here, we grab a half-gallon jug of TiteBond III and drizzle it about as thick as you would syrup on pancakes or waffles. Then (imagining yourself to be either a porn star or fully regressed kindergartener) you put on a rubber glove and smear the glue around, just so.
Over time, I’ve found that I seem to get about the same amount of squeeze-out when clamping no matter what the tool is. And a nitrile glove is a dime, handy, and not a made-up industry.
Order of the Radial
Reader Ray – a fine Fellow of the Radial Order who has also restored one of these beasts – says the clamping screws are damn near Unobtanium. But, on eBay a brand-new set was found for around $45. The ones that I have will clean up fine, but when doing a restoration (and this saw may be passed on to son G2) the idea is to have all the parts that can “go wrong” in the future.
Remember the story of John Titor having to time travel to find some IBM mainframe parts in (his) past? Thing about this is it does turn one’s shop into something that looks like a Hoarder outpost. You don’t really care what others think, do you? But like in electronics for example, a collection of vacuum tubes may be in the same boat in another 20-years, or so. You might need to travel back in time for a 12AX7, lol.
In a Shop, it’s NOT HOARDING. It’s an advance purchasing program!
You want to buy all of the critical parts for a project early-on and set back spares. But yes, there is a problem in organizing. Do you “file by function” or “file by tool” – vexing thoughts that wreck my sleep several times a week.
Ray had some good hints on bluing the steel vertical column on his saw. But I just don’t have the patience for that.
I did, however, find a “saw top bellows” and will be installing that when we get to the repair and restore part. For now, we’re in the scrounging stage. $35-$50 will buy just about anything for one of these, except the motor, yoke, or slide.
Sealing and Sanding
When I was growing up, Pappy was big on primer but he never passed on the critical nature of sanding sealer to his son. I won’t make that mistake (though I have a huge personal collection of other mistakes…).
Amazon carries Zinnser Bull’s Eye SealCoat Universal Sanding Sanding Sealer. Which, as $27-bucks and change is more expensive than a lot of hooch at the package store, but that’s just a budgeting note in passing.
Thing about sanding sealer is that it lets you fill in the wood with a purpose-built material that is designed to give you a really great underlayment for any of your clear finishes. What most people don’t know is it makes getting to a super glass-like finish about 10-times easier – and 3X faster, too!
Didn’t know this until I read the instructions, a few years back. But the sealer dries (to touch) in about 10–minutes, unless you really slather it on thick. Then 20-minutes. Then, depending on slatherizing (if that’s a word) sandable in an hour. Again, or two.
Typically, for “glass-like” you’d use 2-4 coats of sanding sealer and then two coats of final product. I’ll likely to use a hard clear varathne of some kind. The point is not to polish up the fine woodworking skills (though that wouldn’t hurt, either). The idea is to have a saw table that should be somewhat low friction.
Stuff looks good by itself:”
One more sanding and one more coat and these pieces should be “project ready.”
One of our readers was asking: The dimensions for a Craftsman radial table saw are (plus or minus). About 3-inches (small, backmost table). 7-inches, or a bit shy for the middle table. The stop fence is 3/4″ wide and about 3-inches tall. It sandwiches between the middle table and the front. And the front table is anywhere in the 16-18-inch range. It’s hard bolted.
Ray’s point about those clamps is you do want to take care of them because they give you adjustment range. More as this project meanders along.
Fattening in a Healthy Way
Very happy with the Bighorn propane broiler I wrote about earlier this week: With the cover off and drip pan inside, it looks like this on the stainless steel table on the BBQ deck:
The food is really good on it. Rack on the lower shelf is the warming rack (also called the baked potato finishing rack) from the Tru Infrared this sits next to.
Later this week, I’ll be tearing up the wiring for the motion lights around the house. Because I need to put an outlet close to the BBQ grill to power the new rotisserie which will be doing teriyaki chicken this afternoon.
Elaine’s got two hip replacements, so we don’t just run extension cords willy-nilly. A properly done GFI outlet to power the cooking area seems like the smart thing to install.
Off to visit the 3806 KHz crowd on the ham rig, then a dandy for gardening, shop work, and eating. Hope yours is as much fun…
Write when you get rich,